The first time you ever see a whitework quilt, you may be amazed at the intricacy and detail.  Although they may look like a project only an experienced, expert level quilter should attempt, they are really not that difficult.

Let’s break it down into the basic steps.

1. A white work quilt is essentially a whole cloth quilt.  So the first step is to pick out your fabric.  Choose a good quality quilting fabric in a wide width; a few inches wider than you want your finished project to be.  The top fabric can be the same as the backing.
2. Choose your patten or patterns.  Most whitework quilts have large motif designs in the center; like a medallian quilt.  You may also choose to put several motifs in place.  Also choose a pattern for the areas between the motifs.  Whitework quilts are quilting heavily, usually a maximum of 1 1/2 to 2 inches apart.  A grid or feather pattern inbetween the motifs is very common.
3. Transfer you pattern onto the quilt top.  Do this the same as you would for any quilt using your most preferred method.
4. Baste your quilt, just like you alway would; with safety pins or large basting stitches.
5. Quilt, hand stitch, hand quilt, or embroider following the pattern you transferred on earlier.
6. Bind and you are done.

As you see, a Whitework quilt is not much different than any other quilt.  This type of quilting can be a nice change from piecing or applique.

I encourage everyone to give it a try.  Start off with a small piece to see if you like it.

There are several types of stitches that the whitework artist can use. The most common is the traditional quilting stitch. Others include:

• Cording – technique that involves stitching two parrallel lines and inserting a cord between them. Cording not only gives a raised sculpture look, it also adds stiffness to the area.
• Trapunto – also known as stuffed quilting, is when a design is stitched and then stuffed from the back. Trapunto adds a raised effect to the design; the amount the area is stuffed will determine the amount of the raised effect or the stiffness of the area.  Trapunto is accomplished using a backing or lining fabric.
• Candlewicking - this style gets it name from the type of thread used.  To candlewick you need to use a thicker thread, about the size of a candle wick.  Embroidery and quilting done with this thick thread creates texture to the design.  Most candlewicked designs use knotting or stem stiches.
• Drawn Work – also referred to as pulled fabric or hardanger embroidery; this is when some of the threads of the fabric are cut and pulled out after a section has been stitched.  This creates a see-through area, resembling lace.
• Stumpwork - a typle of stitching and embroidery where figures are 3 dimentional; raised from the surface.  For example, a design using a flower that has the petals 3-D; of raised off the surface: stumpworked.

No doubt the average sewer or quilter has a huge supply of pins and needles; and probably several pin cushions.  They are used several times when sewing, but have you ever thought about how to care for these essential notions?

Due to the fact they are inexpensive, little care is needed.  However, there is nothing worse than needing a needle and the only one left is dull and hard to work with.  In general, a good pin cushion and an abrasive is all you need.

Magnetic pin cushions are nice to have on hand because they “grab” the pins for you.  They can make working with them a lot easier.  However, they are not a good choice for storage, even though they may prevent a mess in the sewing drawer.  The magnetic pin cushions do not protect the pins or needles in anyway and, overtime, can magnetize them; this would make them frustrating to work with.

The trusty, old cloth style pin cushion does a little more to protect the metal finish of the pins.  Because the pins are stuck into the cushion they are less likely to rust.  Most cloth style pin cushions are filled with fiber fill and wool.  According to an article on About.com, the wool roving contains lanolin which helps prevent rust.  The most important thing to look for when selecting or crafting a cloth pin cushion is how tight the stuffing is; they tighter it is the better it will hold the pins in place.

The smaller needle cushions are generally filled with something more abrasive such as sand or silica.  This helps to keep the needle points sharp.  In fact, there are several suggestions on how to sharpen needles or make pins last longer by rubbing them with an abrasive material such as sandpaper or heavy wool. 

Keep in mind that pins and needles are one of the most inexpensive notions used.  Simple care and knowing when to discard them are key.  It is recommended to discard your needle after eight hours of use; usually when threads or fibers start breaking and you feel it pulling on your fabric instead of gliding through it.  Get rid of pins when bent or if they don’t go into the fabric easily.

You decided to do a little hand sewing.  Picking out what needle to use should be the easiest part of the job, but when you peruse the selection in your local store it turns into a guessing game.  Sharps (aren’t all needles sharp?), Betweens (between what?!), Crewel (does that mean they are from Louisiana?), Milliners’(?!?!?); why can’t they just say “if you are mending use this; if you are quilting use this”.

So, let’s break it down.

Sharps are your basic needles.  These are a staple in every sewing kit or notion drawer.  They are great to use for just about any sewing.  They are your old stand-by and can be used when you can’t find a specialty needle to use.  They are generally medium in length with a round eye.

Crewel needles are used for embroidery and are sometimes referred to as embroidery needles.  Because they have a longer, bigger eye they are easier to thread.  They are great to use for cross stitch and embroidery because they are able to hold multiple thread and thicker yarns or flosses.

Betweens are usually used in quilting.  Their shorter length makes delicate work a breeze. Their rounded eye is great for threading.  These needles make fine stitches in heavy fabric or fabric layers possible.

Milliners’ needles are named after the craft they come from, millinery, hat making.  They are very thin and long with a fine eye.  They are also good to use for basing and pleating.

The size of the needle is just as important as the type.  They are numbered from one to ten.  One being very heavy and ten is very fine.  The size of the needle depends on the fabric.  You need a chose a needle that will go through the fabric by fitting between the threads; too heavy and you will break the fibers; too fine, it will be hard to thread and hold.

The only wrong needle is one that will make doing the job harder or damage your fabric.  Maybe you prefer a medium or longer needle because they are easier to hold on to.  If you can still create the delicate stitches you need, then it may be a better choice as opposed to a quilting needle.  The good news is, needles are inexpensive.  Buy several types and try them out.  In no time you will realize what is the right needle for you and your project.

Using the right tool for the job makes the task easier.  Sewing pins and safety pins are a must have for every quilter’s notion drawer.  But they come in so many types, sizes and lengths, how is the beginner to know they are using the right one? 

First, we need to explore the different pins out there:

• Appliqué – very short pins, great for holding your appliqué pieces in place.
• Ball Point – rounded tip won’t snag on fabric, generally used for knits ore lingerie fabrics.
• Beading – these have a large head on them, generally used for crafting or pinning items with openings, such as lace.
• Bridal and Lace – extra fine pin to prevent damage to fine fabrics.  Usually they are shorter in length.
• Craft – usually an extra long pin for heavier fabrics and craft projects.
• Dressmaker – general purpose pin, but shorter in length.
• Flat (flowers or buttons) – the flattened plastic head works well under rulers or during ironing.
• General Purpose – can be found with a variety of heads; glass, plastic, metallic, pearlized or flat.  Good for general sewing on medium weight fabrics; can also be used for decorative, floral or craft projects.
• Pleating – Fine and sharp for holding those pleats in place.
• Quilting – generally extra long to go through multiple layers of fabric or heavy duty fabric.
• Satin – good for satin fabrics because of the tapered point.
• Sequin – similar to an appliqué pin; can be used for crafting as well.
• Silk – good for silk and synthetic fibers.  Rustproof for delicate fabrics.
• Safety Pin – general purpose.  Good for crafting and sewing.  Can be used for quilting.
• Curved Safety Pin – Better to use for quilting.  The curve allows for easier insertion through the layers of fabric.

There are few things to consider when choosing what pin to use; head, shaft width, point, metal finish and your material.  In most cases, it comes down to personal preference.  The exception would be when working with delicate or fine fabrics; a extra fine pin should be used to prevent damage to the fabric.

Stainless Steel or Brass pins are rustproof, so they are a good choice when using a lot of steam or if the pins will stay in place for a while.  The down side is they will not stick to a magnet making them harder to pick up when dropped or to keep organized on a magnet pin cushion.  Nickel-plated steel on the other hand works well with magnets.  Although they are not rust proof, they are rust-resistant.

The type of head to choose is the at the sole discretion of the crafter.  A ball head, either glass or plastic, make it easier to grab the pin but it will add some bulk.  Glass heads may be preferred over plastic when ironing and flat heads work well with rulers and rotary cutters.  The choice may come down to the task at hand and not necessarily the project.

In the end, every sewer has his or hers favorite sewing pin to use.  The only way to find the one you like is to try them all.

In the world we live in, everyone’s life is so busy.  For most women, they are “working moms” as it takes more than one income just to make ends meet.  Unfortunately, that doesn’t mean that they get a break from the day to day “mom” duties.  Many of us have to live double lives; we are career minded one minute and the soccer mom the next; the secretary at work and the doctor/dentist scheduler at home; office administrator by day and home keeper by night.  With all these responsibilities, how is the creative woman to find time to indulge in the simple pleasure of their favorite craft?

It comes down to simple Time Management techniques.  These simple, effective practices are taught everyday to business professionals can easily be used to fit your favorite hobby into your daily schedule.

• Make your hobby a “Rock” on your calendar.  One major task taught by Stephen Covey in his book “7 Habits of Highly Effective People” is to mark off time for the events of the week that are most important to you or things that cannot be changed; such as doctor’s appointments, meetings, kids events, . . . . and time to sew.
• Your creativity is NOT a priority, it IS a Core Value.  Priorities change depending upon the circumstances of the times.  Core Values are what make you who you are, so they never change.  Creative people are always creative; it shows in everything they do.  By blocking off time to focus on your creativity, even if it is just 15 minutes a day, it will grow into a bigger part of yourself.
• Break your larger goals down into smaller ones.  If your goal is to finish a quilt by a specific day, break it down into steps and set goal dates for each step.  Next break each step down further to what needs to be completed each week, couple of days, or day.  You will get more satisfaction when you are meeting your goals every day or week instead of every few months.  Plus you will feel more motivated working each day.
• Get satisfaction from doing a small amount.  Sometimes, all that can be fit into one day is only 10 minutes.  This is alright; a little of something is better than nothing at all.
• Organize your projects for easy use.  If you can only spare 30 minutes a day to work on your hobby, you don’t want to spend 20 minutes getting it out and ready to work on.  Keep it close with your next step ready to go, this way your full 30 minutes is productive.

Is there really a difference in the fabric found in the local quilt shop?  That is an excellent question.  One thing is for certain, the fabric in a quilt shop is generally more expensive.  Before we can get into the details, let’s review how fabric is actually made.

Cotton fabric is weaved from cotton yard at a textile weaving mill.  This is the actual manufacturer of fabric; how it is weaved and the quality of the yarn used determines the quality of the fabric.  Fabric from the weaving mill is called Greige (“Gray”) goods; this means that nothing has been done to the fabric yet, no dying or patterns, just straight off the loom.

Fabric Converters purchase these greige goods.  A converter is a company that designs the patterns for the fabric.  They also make the decisions on what to sell and how much to the store.  Some converters do their own printing, other send the greige goods off to a textile printing factory.  In the end the converter sells the finished product to the quilt shops or chain stores.

Many things can make the difference in the fabrics offered from store to store. 

 The local quilt shops usually only sell the higher quality items and they have the experience to spot a problem fabric.  This is not to say that discount fabric stores and big chain stores don’t have a place in our craft.  It is not in everyone’s budget to spend $10-$20 a yard for fabric.  But like the old adage goes, “you get what you pay for”.  Consider the project you are working on; how many times will it be washed, is it going to hang on the wall or is a toddler going to drag it around, is it a practice or heirloom piece?

A good rule to keep in mind when deciding where to buy your fabric is that a discount fabric may only last a few years with regular use and a quality fabric may out live you.

When putting together this article, the idea was to gather the brands of fabric that are trusted to be “high quality”. The goal was to have a list to share and a little bit about each company, so that when you are out shopping, you could look for specific brands for your more treasured projects. However, there are too many to list in one article!

I decided to break them up into multiple posts. This may take me 10 or more posts to complete and even then, the list may not be all inclusive because we can’t forget about the designers. But, this blog is supposed to be about fabric, fiber and quilting – Not just Fabric!! So I can’t post them one right after the other; my readers will quickly get bored. So expect them to be added sporadically.

Here are the first three:

Moda is definitely a well known name in the quilting community. They have been around since 1975 and are located in Dallas, TX. In addition to their in-house designers, they are open to using impendent artists. Their diversity in designers, gives them a wide variety to present to their customers; always offering the hottest items on market. They were one of the first companies to put fabric designs into “collections”, making it easier for the beginner quilter to shop for fabrics that will make a beautiful quilt. They come out with a new collection about every six weeks. If you visit their website, there is a great behind-the-scenes video.

Hoffman Fabrics was started as a family business in 1924. They were primarily an apparel fabric convertor until the 1970’s, when they turned their sights to creating quilting fabric. To this day, three generations of Hoffman’s still work in the business. They offer a wide variety of original screen prints and hand-dyed batiks and handpaints; over 800 new designs each year. We can’t talk about Hoffman Fabrics, without mentioning the Hoffman Challenge. For over two decades Hoffman Fabrics has sponsored this contest where quilters/crafters are “challenged” to create something with a specific fabric design. The top entries are included in a traveling collection that is shown at quilt shows, shops, and guilds throughout the US and Canada.

Robert Kaufman Fabrics is located Los Angeles, CA. They are a converter of quality quilting fabrics. They use a multitude of designers to give their customers a variety to choose from. Robert Kaufman does offer a great selection of basic cotton quilting fabrics and novelty prints, but they also have a wonderful batik collection and they have Japanese fabrics. Darlene Zimmerman’s Clothesline Club is through Robert Kaufman as well. If you are a fan of the 1930’s fabrics, then this is a club you will want to check out.